Winter in Europe is cold and dark (okay, maybe not quite as cold as Minnesota, but everyone else in the world thinks it’s cold…). Because of this many tourists plan their visits for the warmer summer months with long sunny days. What those tourists don’t know though, is that over the centuries the Europeans have come up with a wonderful way to combat winter’s gloom: The Christmas Market. As the month of December begins rows and rows of market stalls are set up, lights are strung, and towering trees are decorated in old town squares, and city parks all across Europe to bring festive cheer. Traditionally the markets coincide with the four weeks of Advent, and end on Christmas, but some have grown popular enough to last a week or two longer. A wide variety of items are on sale in the stalls, from traditional foods, to clothing, to holiday knick-knacks, and of course gluhwein/vin chaud/mulled wine (delicious and warming no matter what language you speak).
Winter’s cold is lessened with the warm food and drink, as well as by the warmth emanating through the large crowds huddled in their heavy winter garb. Even though the European winter sun sets before 5 p.m., nights at the markets are something to look forward to. The dazzling light displays that illuminate medieval buildings while the air is filled with the pleasant sound of Christmas carols is cheerful enough to brighten the mood of anyone, even Krampus!
After talking up the markets with both our moms, we easily convinced them both to join us for a grand tour of Christmas markets. From Saturday December 3rd until Monday December 12th Melissa, and I, as well as her mother Janell, and my mother Julie visited Christmas markets in seven cities spread across five countries.
Our tour began in Munich, Germany. Melissa and I arrived around noon by way of train and bus, while our mothers arrived by plane, also around noon, but then had to take a train into the city center. After checking into our hotel, Melissa and I waited at the nearby train stop for our mothers. Their train came, and we by chance spotted them through the window chatting away. But they didn’t realize which stop they were at. Melissa knocked on the train window to surprise them, which caused them to start collecting their luggage, but before they could get to the door the train began moving. Fortunately they were just riding an S-Bahn train which makes stops every couple minutes, so it was no big deal for them to figure out how to exit at the next stop and find their way back to us.
At the hotel we exchanged presents from our countries of residence: socks, underwear, and ibuprofen for us; chocolate and cereal for our mothers. Then we boarded a train bound for Marienplatz, a square in the heart of old town Munich, and the location of the city’s largest Christmas market. Our train stop was below ground and very modern looking, with hallways of chain stores trying to entice busy commuters. However, with just an escalator ride out from the station we found ourselves right at the edge of the medieval square. Towering above us was the gothic town hall (called the Neues Rathaus in German), and all around us in the square, even overflowing into all the connecting side streets, was the bustling Christmas market.
We spent some time enjoying the view, and checking out a nearby church, then it was time to explore the Christmas market. As we walked through the rows of stalls Julie and Janell stopped often to admire the wares. Our first purchase was four cups of hot gluhwein at a stand near the market exit. Then as we began walking to a different Christmas market located just a few blocks away, my mom bought some roasted chestnuts for us all to share.
From Marienplatz we walked to Residenz München, the former royal palace of Bavaria. In a courtyard of the palace was another Christmas market. Most interesting at this market was a section of five or six stands decorated to tell different fairy tales. As a recorded voice spoke in German, I’m assuming to tell the fairy tale, the animatronic characters would move around.
We also stopped at a third very crowded Christmas market with a medieval theme, then it was time for supper. Since we’re Americans, we had to go to Hofbrauhaus. The large German beer hall didn’t disappoint for my and Melissa’s fourth visit. We all purchased liter beers, and enjoyed filling meals of traditional German food.
Even though there were two additional Christmas markets on my map, after dinner everyone felt like it was time to head back to the hotel. We made one last stop at the main market in Marienplatz where my mother bought a Christmas tree ornament, and somehow the rest of us found room for one last mug of gluhwein. At the hotel we went to bed early to rest up for our next day’s journey to Nuremburg…
